Cyclone Arnab

Today we left Thame at around 3,800 m (12,470 ft) and continued deeper into the mountains towards Lungden, where we’re sleeping tonight at 4,400 m (14,436 ft).

The altitude is definitely becoming a bigger factor. Everything takes a little more effort and the air feels noticeably thinner, but overall we’re feeling good.

For perspective, our teahouse is higher than Mount Fuji, Japan’s highest mountain, and essentially at the summit altitude of Mount Rainier. We’re also just 21 m (69 ft) below Mount Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous United States.

And we’re sleeping here.

The morning was overcast as we followed the trail up the valley. It was incredibly quiet, as expected on a route travelled by relatively few trekkers each year. Apart from some yaks and the occasional hiker, we had the path largely to ourselves.

We reached Lungden around 1pm. Shortly afterwards, light snow began to fall.

The weather change is being driven by the remnants of Cyclone Arnab, which formed over the Bay of Bengal and weakened after making landfall in India. Unfortunately, weakening doesn’t mean disappearing. Its moisture is still reaching Nepal and turning into snow high in the Himalayas.

So we’ve somehow managed to come all the way to Everest and still get caught by the leftovers of a tropical cyclone.

Tomorrow was supposed to be one of the biggest days of the expedition: crossing Renjo La at 5,340 m (17,520 ft), our first high pass.

Whether that happens is now uncertain.

Life also gets more expensive the higher we climb. Water costs more, which makes sense when someone has to carry supplies up here.

The WiFi is more expensive too.

I’m less clear on that one. Perhaps the radio waves find the altitude difficult as well.

Tonight we’re warm, feeling good and gathered around the teahouse stove. The fuel? Yak dung. Everest glamour at its finest.

We’ll see what happens with the snow overnight and make the call with our guide, Raz, in the morning. The mountains get the final say.

Tomorrow we’ll open the door, look at the mountains and find out what comes next…

4400 m reported altitude · 9.5 km · 698 m ascent · 3 hr 20 min moving time · 91 bpm average

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