EXPEDITION DAY 6 ·
Leaving Civilisation!
Thame, Nepal · 3800 m reported altitude
Today we left Namche Bazaar and headed for Thame, and almost immediately it felt like we had stepped into a different part of the Khumbu.
We are now off the standard Everest Base Camp route, so the trail was much quieter. Fewer trekkers, smaller villages and more people simply getting on with daily life. It feels less like a trekking highway and more like we are actually passing through real mountain communities.
As we walked out of Namche, there was a sudden burst of helicopter activity. Several trekkers suffering from AMS were being airlifted back towards Kathmandu. It was quite a sobering sight and a useful reminder that altitude does not care how fit, experienced or determined you are.
Our own day was thankfully much more straightforward.
The hike to Thame was relatively easy, with great views throughout, and we arrived in around four hours. After lunch, rather than doing the sensible thing and relaxing, we climbed again to around 4,000 metres to visit Thame Monastery.
We had a look around, took in the views and then somehow ended up playing kick ball with some of the local monks.
I am choosing to describe this as highly specialised altitude training.
There is probably no scientific evidence that trying to keep up with monks at 4,000 metres improves acclimatisation, but it certainly raises the heart rate.
The match eventually came to a fairly dramatic end when one of the monks took a kick, connected perfectly with the ball…and also launched his sandal off his foot and down the cliff face.
Game over.
I’m not sure what the official rules are for losing your footwear into the Himalayas, but we decided it was probably a good time to retire undefeated.
The weather now looks like it may be about to change, so we are watching the forecasts closely and keeping our plans flexible. Up here, the mountains make the final decision.
Tomorrow we head higher again, deeper into the quieter part of the route.
The crowds are behind us, the air is getting thinner, and the serious mountains are getting closer.
3800 m reported altitude · 9 km · 643 m ascent · 3 hr 9 min moving time · 93 bpm average