When the Mountain Says Turnback

The last two days have felt like a completely different expedition.

Yesterday we left Thame and climbed to Lungden, covering 9.5 km and gaining almost 700 m to finish around 4,400 m. The route was quiet, remote and increasingly wintry. By the time we reached the teahouse, snow had started to fall.

Overnight, everything changed.

This morning we woke to 30–40 cm of snow in places, with snow lying down to around 3,700 m. Our plan had been to cross Renjo La at 5,340 m, but with that much fresh snow already well below the pass, the decision was clear.

We turned back.

That meant 18.4 km back to Namche Bazaar, more than 1,300 m of descent, over seven hours moving and almost 20,000 steps.

For much of the day we were in a complete whiteout. There was no obvious path… just snow and white in every direction. I still have no idea how our guide kept finding the route.

One moment from today will stay with me.

Niall had decided that morning to use trekking poles, despite refusing them up to now, and he turned up properly prepared for the conditions. Our guide had no poles and slipped several times on the snowy trail. Without any fuss, Niall offered him his.

It was a small gesture, but I was incredibly proud. In that moment I saw the young man he has become… prepared, thoughtful and generous.

The official warnings matched what we were seeing. Nepal’s Department of Hydrology and Meteorology placed the northern mountains of Koshi Province on red alert for 30 October, warning of heavy to very heavy rain or snow, while tourism authorities warned of snowstorms and avalanche risk.

Across the two days we covered nearly 28 km, climbed over 1,100 m and descended almost 1,450 m, much of it between 3,700 m and 4,400 m.

Turning back was the right call. Renjo will still be there.

The journey continues… just in a new direction, with Everest Base Camp still ahead.

4000 m reported altitude · 18.4 km · 416 m ascent · 5 hr 54 min moving time · 92 bpm average

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